We catch an early train from Monterosso to Riomaggiore, about a 15-minute ride, and walk through Riomaggiore to the paths behind the town, leading up into the hills.
Passing through Riomagiore
The trail leads up, bringing us to the ridge, along which we'll hike for a few hours.
Up the trail
When we reach the top, we are rewarded with views of Riomaggiore and up the coast to Monterosso in the distance.
Romaggiore below and Monterosso in the distance
The trail winds through a burnt-out section of the forest and then along the side of the hill to Santuario di Nostra Signora di Montenero, a church and monastery with great views.
Through the fire zone
View up the cost
We continue along the ridge, passing the occasional house and vineyard.
Continuing along the ridge
Soon we start up again, heading toward the next ridge that we will follow for a while.
At the top, we start a pleasant walk through the forest.
We zip through the small town of Campiglia, follow some more forest path, then the going gets interesting, with rocky trails along the top of the ridge and occasional glimpses of our destination in the distance.
More forest trails
Some rocky stretches
Destination in the distance
The trail continues up, down, and along the ridge.
Up, down, along
Soon, we start the descent into Portovenere.
We wander into town for our reward: lunch. Today we'll have octopus and potato salad, prosciutto and melon, and two pizzas (Pizza Portovenere, and Pizza Mamma Mia).
After lunch, we take the ferry back to Monterosso, viewing from the sea the hiking path over which we just travelled.
The ridge we hiked
Stopping briefly in Riomaggiore by sea
Back in Monterosso