Olbia, Sardinia

We take the ferry over to Sardinia, arriving in Olbia in the north of the island.  Our hotel offers an incredible view of the water and the coastline across the harbor, with ferries passing back and forth.

 Dramatic view of the harbor and coast

We drop our luggage at the hotel and drive up to Porto Cervo, the Sardinian playground for the rich and famous.  The drive up to Port Cervo is incredible:  stunning water views, rugged coastline, and islands in the distance.

Views of the Mediterranean and Sardinia on the drive

 Yachts in the harbor at Porto Cervo

Porto Cervo itself is a modern port of shops and restaurants with great sculptures scattered everywhere.

Views of Porto Cervo

 Random sculptures

We poke around for a bit, wander into a few shops, then head back to the Burger & Beach Bar that caught our eye as we drove up, sitting on the top of a hill, with a path down to the water for dining at the water's edge.  We walk down a path to the sea and enjoy fish and chips and burgers, with local beer and a view that can't be beat.  We could sit here all day, relax, and watch the water and breathtaking sights.  We enjoy it so much that we come back a few days later for another round of burgers, fish & chips, and scenery.

 Burger, fish and chips, sliders

 View of and from our table

After lunch, we head back to our hotel and spend some time on the beach as a great finale to our first day in Sardinia.

 Afternoon at the beach

Wandering Around Monterosso Al Mare, Cinque Terre

Monterosso al Mare is the northernmost of the 5 Cinque Terre towns and is divided into two parts, the old town and the new town, which are connected by a tunnel in which pedestrians and cars compete for space.  The train station is in the old town, but northbound trains pass over a bridge by the main square in the new town before reaching the station, giving a quick glimpse (as the train pops in and out of the tunnels) of train and town (depending whether you are in the town or the train).

Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, the main square in the new town, provides a space where residents and tourists dine, relax, swim off the beach, and enjoy the passing of each day.  The old town and the new town are both incredible, each beautiful and distinct in its own way.

 Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi

Behind the piazza is the Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista, built between 1244 and 1307.

 Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista

On the south side of the piazza, streets wind their way into the city and up the hill (one of entries of the trail to Vernazza begins here behind the city hall).

 Streets through the city

A few blocks into the city is the Oratorio Santa Croche, another beautiful church dating from the 16th century.

 Oratorio Santa Croche

Crossing over the main street in the new town, Via Roma, we walk through more picturesque streets and up a hill to the over-400-year-old Convento dei Frati Cappuccini (convent of the Cappuccini Friars), complete with a beautiful church and a cemetery overlooking the city.

 More Monterosso streets

 Convento dei Fratti Cappuccini

 Cemetery

 Views from the cemetery

Descending from the cemetery, the path leads to the statue of St. Francis of Assisi, with more great view of the sea and the new town (beach and train overpass).

 St. Francis of Assisi and his view in both directions

The walk down from the statue reveals yet more panoramic sights and, when we arrive in Piazza Garibaldi, it is market day, with food stands, food trucks, and household and clothing stalls set up in the piazza and under the train overpass.

 Views of the sea and beach

 Market day in the piazza

Our lunch this day is inspired by ingredients we have just seen in the market, focaccia with anchovies, tomatoes, and mozzarella and frito misto with anchovies, shrimp, and calamari.

 Focaccia and frito misto

There's a reason we come back here as often as we can!

Hiking from Riomaggiore to Portovenere

Our favorite hike in Cinque Terre is from Riomaggiore to Portovenere, about 15 km (9 miles) or so (24 km/15 miles by car), with a vertical climb from the sea to about 600 meters (2000 feet) and then along the ridges, up and down as the hills lead us.  This is a difficult hike, but truly rewarding with beautiful views, a serene setting, great hiking trails, and Portovenere at the end.

We catch the early-morning train from Monterosso to Riomaggiore (15 minutes) and walk out of town, up into the hills

 Train from Monterosso, heading out of Riomaggiore

Path along the sea from Riomaggiore to Portovenere

The path leads up with views of Riomaggiore periodically appearing through the trees.  At the top of the first ridge, the path passes through the yard of the Santuario di Nostra Signora di Montenero, overlooking the city.

 Up!

 Views of Riomaggiore

We follow the ridges along the coast, popping in and out of fields, vineyards, and forests, descending and climbing as the terrain dictates.

 Through the forest and vineyards

Along the cost

About halfway, the trail passes through the small town of Campiglia and heads back into a peaceful forest path, before the steep descent into Portovenere.

 Campiglia

 Continuing along the sea

 Up and down

After the final descent into Portovenere, we head over to the harbor and reward ourselves with lunch at our favorite restaurant here, Al Gabbiano:  octopus with potatoes, Portovenere pizza (anchovies, tuna, olives), Mama Mia pizza (sausage and spicy sausage), and a carafe of local white wine.  We'd do the hike for this meal any day (or, just the meal or just the hike, but both are even more spectacular together:  wow!).

 Portovenere harbor

 Lunch:  octopus and pizzas

After lunch, we take the ferry back to Monterosso, cruising up the coast and viewing the ridgelines over which we just hiked.  With stops at each of the cities, we get to revisit the paths of our various hikes, train trips, and meals.

 Hiking trails on top

 Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza

Arriving back in Monterosso

What a great way to spend a day!