Around Monterosso al Mare, Cinque Terre

Wow! There is so much more to Monterosso than we knew, even after seven years of visits.  This trip we stayed long enough to enjoy the full town.

The last ferry of the season to Portofino is today and Laura and Jennifer decide to take it and spend a few hours traveling by sea up the northern coast and experiencing the sights and food of that city.  I take the opportunity to wander through Monterosso, walking up and down the streets and steps, exploring the city as I never had before in all the years we've been coming and staying.

Our first stop every day is the CRAI grocery store at the bottom of the steps down from Hotel Villa Steno.  We buy water (still and sparkling) before we start our hikes and wine on our way back to consume as we enjoy the late afternoon and our beautiful view from our patio of our room at Villa Steno.   We also stop to admire the other options in this small store (we are not in Safeway land anymore!).

 CRAI Five Lands Market

But, enough drooling over the food, today is for wandering around the city.  I first walk down to the harbor with Laura and Jennifer and wave as their ferry heads north.

 Ferry loads and leaves

I then head into the old town of Monterosso al Mare, built into the hills, and take steps up to see where they lead.  I find all kinds of neighborhoods hidden down these streets.  As I walk up and down the steps, paths, and streets, I hear the happy chatter of families, guests, tourists, AirBNB clients, everyone having a good time getting ready for another day in paradise.

 Streets and paths of Monterosso Old Town

At the top of the streets/paths, I receive great views across Monterosso and of the hills in which it is nestled.

 Viewing the hills at the top of Monterosso

Descending back into the city, I walk through the lower streets of the old town, heading toward the tunnel connecting the old town and the new town (the sign across from the fountain in the old town square is for a  fundraising dinner to be held in the square to benefit the victims of the recent earthquake, featuring the signature dish of the stricken region, spaghetti all'Amatriciana).

 Lower streets of old town

 Monterosso's new town beach and beachfront

I started with food and will end my grand tour with food.  The new town has the bruschetta and focaccia  shops, but both feature gelato shops!

Fresh bruschetta

 Focaccia, for here or to go

 Gelato!

Gelato enjoyed!

There's a reason we come back to Cinque Terre and to Monterosso al Mare every year.  The sights, the food, the people, the adventure, the character, the charm, the relaxation.  They can't be beat!  Pure vacation!

Returning from Portovenere by Sea

The Mediterranean is calm and the ferries are running up and down the coast between La Spezia, Portovenere, the towns of Cinque Terre, and further up the coast to Levanto and Portofino.  In previous years, the sea was rough and we had to return to Monterosso al Mare by train from La Spezia.  This year, we get to see our hike from Riomagiorre to Portovenere in reverse from the water.

 Portovenere harbor

The ferry pulls out of the harbor in Portovenere and heads around the castle to which we descended in the last part of our hike.  As we round that point, we can see all the way up the coast to Monterosso.  The ferry first slowly cruises along the ridge, where we scrambled up and down the rocky trail along the top.

 Leaving Portovenere harbor and rounding the point

Portovenere in the rear view mirror

 Trail along the top of the ridge

 Soon, we pass by Campiglia on top of the hill, the small town we passed through in the second half of the hike, after the walk through the forest paths.

 Campiglia on the right on top of the hill

As we continue up the coast and around the corner toward Riomaggiore, we take one last look down and spot the tip of Portovenere in the far distance.  We kept viewing and getting closer and closer to the fort on that tip as we hiked (and took many pictures of it increasing in size as we approached). Near us, on the hill above, is the  Santuario della Madonna di Montenero, to which the trail first led us up from Riomaggiore, before starting down the coast to Portovenere

 Looking back down the coast from just outside Riomaggiore

Portovenere in the far distance, Santuario on top of the hill

 Arriving in Riomaggiore by sea

The ferry continues up the coast, stopping in Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso.  We get a good view of the towns and of the train tracks popping in and out of the tunnels as the they proceed up the coast.  In the train, there is just a flash of light and a view of the sea, then the darkness of the next tunnel takes over.

Train tracks pop in and out of the tunnels along the coast

Corniglia from the sea

Approaching Monterosso

We arrive back in Monterosso, tired, well-fed, and relaxed.  Time to pick up a bottle of wine on the walk from the harbor and enjoy the rest of the day.

Riomaggiore to Portovenere, continued

At the halfway point between Riomaggiore and Portovenere, we are at the top of a ridge, maybe another hundred to hundred-fifty meters (325-500 feet) higher than the Santuario, about 450 meters (1500 feet) above Riomaggiore.  The path enters a forest and we walk through the forest for a while.

 Walk through the forest

The path continues along the top of the ridge and we make good time toward the small town of Campiglia, which we quickly walk through (previously we've stopped for lunch here, but the small bar we enjoyed is now closed permanently).  We are making good time, with the goal of reaching Portovenere while the restaurants are still serving lunch.  As we pass through Campiglia, we can see La Spezia, across the bay on the left, and can soon see the Portovenere in the distance.

Approaching Campiglia

 La Spezia on the left, Mediterranean on the right

But, it's not long before we get into some serious rocky up and down segments, with the reward of views of Portovenere in the distance as we reach high points.

  Trail gets steep and rocky

Portovenere getting closer and closer

The trail joins the road for a ways and we pass a large marble quarry, with views of La Spezia on the other side of the road.  But, we quickly are back in the forest, heading toward the final stretch.

Marble quarry on one side

La Spezia on the other

We continue through the forest then emerge above Portovenere, with a final descent over loose rocks into the city.

 The final descent over loose rocks into Portovenere

Looking toward the Mediterranean and toward the harbor

And, as we finish up our descent, we view the trail signs showing our hike today.  We did the journey in 4 hours, one hour short of the suggested 5 hours, and just in time for lunch!

Trail guides in Portovenere

Jennifer takes the ferry from Monterosso and meets us for a special lunch in Portovenere. Octopus and potato salad and frito misto to start, followed by Pizza Mama Mia (mozerella, spiced salami, sausage), Pizza Portovenere (tuna and anchovies), and a bottle of Vino de la Casa Bianca, the house local white wine.

Sharing octopus/potato salad and frito misto

Pizzas Tuna/Anchovy and Mozarella/Spiced Salami/Sausage

 Vino Bianco de la Casa