Exploring Vernazza and Finding Lunch

Vernazza is the only natural port in Cinque Terre and dates back to 1080 when it was an active maritime base and a point of departure for naval defense against pirates.  Over the next two centuries, Vernazza was vital in the Republic of Genoa's conquest of Liguria, providing port, fleet, and soldiers and most of the powerful families of Vernzza pledged their allegiance to the Republic of Genoa.  In the 15th century, Vernazza once again focused on defense from pirate raids, then suffered a period of decline through the 17th century that reversed in the 19th century with a return to wine production and an end to its isolation with the construction of the Genoa-La Spezia rail line.  Now, a thriving tourist destination, this beautiful village is a fabulous place to wander and we do so, finding narrow, intriguing pedestrian streets, small parks, and great views of the sea as we reach higher levels of the village.

Streets of Vernazza

Glimpses of the sea

Up through the streets

We head south (and up) on the village streets toward the trail to next town south, Corniglia, with the intention of seeking lunch at La Torre, a restaurant above the city with great views over Vernazza and toward Monterosso.

Looking back at the village

Views from our table at La Torre

We lunch fabulously on linguine with lobster and octopus with lemon and potato puree.

Linguine, octopus

After lunch, we walk down to the harbor in Vernazza, observing the people dining in Piazza Marconi and enjoying activities in and on the water.

Dining in the square

Water sports

We take one last look at Piazza Marconi and then walk through it, heading to the station for a train back to Monterosso.

Looking at Piazza Marconi from the end of the harbor

Passing by the piazza

It's been a fun day hiking to Vernazza and exploring the village, now it's time to return to Monterosso and think about dinner.

Hiking to Vernazza

On our trips to Cinque Terre, we often take the path along the Mediterranean from Monterosso al Mare to Vernazza, the next village south.  We decide to do that today and leave Hotel Villa Steno, head down to the beach, and turn left to find the beginning of the trail, passing the private/pay beach (with lounge chairs and umbrellas) and then the public (free) beach (with sand and rocks).

Private beach

Public Beach

Looking back at both beaches as we start

The trail initially heads up the hill past Hotel Porta Roca and turns south on a ridge along the coast, through vineyards, olive groves, and forests.

Heading up

Along the ridge

Looking back at Monterosso

Looking south toward the other four villages

Continuing along the trail

Monterosso getting farther away

Soon, we round a corner and see Vernazza in the distance.

Continuing along the trail

Vernazza comes into view

Monterosso around the corner farther behind us

The path continues along the ridge, then descends into Vernazza, bringing us out into the narrow streets of the village that flow into the main street (Via Roma) and down to the main square at the harbor (Piazza Marconi).

Path continues, then descends to town

Descending into Vernazza

We decide to explore the town and find some lunch.

Arriving in Monterosso al Mare, Hiking to Soviore

We return to Monterosso al Mare, Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy for a week-long adventure of hiking, dining, relaxing, and enjoying the fabulous Mediterranean coast and climate.  It's a long trip over (but, well worth it), connecting in Heathrow to Milan, then taking four trains to Monterosso.  Normally, we take the Malpensa Express train from the Milan airport to Milano Centrale and catch a train direct to Monterosso (or the Leonardo Express train from Fiumicino Airport in Rome to Roma Termini and an express train up to La Spezia or Monterosso).  However, today is the day before a threatened major train strike, service is disrupted, trains are cancelled, and trains are late.  We take great advantage of the Trenitalia app to plan each leg of our rail journey as we work our way to Milan, to Genoa, across Genoa to another station, then (finally) on a train going to Monterosso.  We arrive to be greeted by the beautiful beach with its colorful umbrellas and the fresh flowers and fruit around the city.

Beach

Flowers and fruit in Monterosso

We check into our room in Hotel Villa Steno, overlooking the town, admire the view, and head down the street for a quick wine and anchovy sandwich dinner at Pan e Vino.

View across Monterosso from Hotel Villa Steno

The next morning we rise, enjoy a fabulous breakfast at the hotel, and start our first hike up to Soviore, just above Monterosso.  We enjoy this hike every trip as it give us great views, brings us to the beautiful Santuario Nostra Signora di Soviore, the oldest Marian Sanctuary in Liguria, and often serves as the start to longer hikes to Levanto, to other Cinque Terra villages, or further back into the mountains.  As with most hikes, we start by heading up from the sea.

Getting started

We quickly rise up above the lower trees and get great views of Monterosso and the surrounding area.

Views of Monterosso

Continuing up

At the top, we pause for a drink of water, admire the views across the hills, and then continue down the road from Soviore to the intersection at Colla di Gritta where, at the fork, we follow the road on the right down toward the Monterosso train station across from on the beach.  We find a new pedestrian path is being constructed alongside the road from Soviore to Colla di Gritta and appreciate that we will soon no longer have to walk in the road to travel this route.

Santuario Nostra Signora di Soviore

View toward Levanto

Descent to Colla di Gritta

Walking down from Colla di Gritta, we get views of the other side of Monterosso (we are staying in the old town and the train station and main beaches are in the new town, to which we are now descending).

Views descending

We enter town, head over to the train station on Via Fegina across from the beach, enjoy the flowers in bloom, then find our lunch at a small stand just outside the train station:  cones of fried fish (anchovies, shrimp, and whitefish) with small bottles of wine.

Flowers in bloom

Lunch

We're back for another great vacation in Monterosso al Mare!